Jaali Stitch of Chikan Embroidery
The Jaali stitch in chikan embroidery is a unique speciality of this craft this stitch gives an effect of open mesh or net created. In this stitch the thread is never drawn through the fabric, ensuring that the back portion of the garment looks as impeccable as the front. The work of producing a jaali onto the cloth is done by is carefully done by pushing warps and wefts apart by the needle without cutting or drawing of the thread to give the cloth the appearance of a net. This process makes holes or ‘Jaali’ with a regular circumference and also ensures that the strength of the fabric is not compromised.
History and Origin of Jaali Stitch
The origin of Chikankari is initiated by the influence of intricate carving patterns of Mughal architecture during their period which was inspired from Persian designs later the chikankari craft was patronized by Nawabs. It is believed that Noor Jahan, queen to the Mughal emperor Jahangir, took a special interest in Persian architecture. Wide open designs and the visual effects of a jaali i.e. lattice screens in concrete fascinated her. The desire to replicate the jaali or lattice screens onto fabric is what inspired the creation of this technique in chikankari.
What is a Jaali?
A rough translation of Jaali would be ‘net’, a jali or jaali is the term for a perforated stone or latticed screen. Jali or jaali screen (जाल in Hindi) Jaali is a distinctive feature of Mughal architecture, one can also witness the Jaali pattern surrounding the royal cenotaphs at the Taj Mahal in Agra.
Jaali technique is an architectural technique that uses natural or environmental dynamics to create comfort. Jaali is small perforations in a wall that eliminates direct sunlight and also maintains a constant movement of air. Also, it lets light in without glare and so the intensity of light remains unaffected. The other purpose of creating ‘Jaali’ was to allow highborn women to view life outside their quarters while remaining secluded from prying eyes the jaali design was used for window screens and room dividers but also became popular as a decorative style for railings around thrones, platforms, terraces and balconies.
Jaali Stitch & Ada Chikan
Timeless crafts and luxury in its fine craftsmanship, Ada Chikan introduces you to some of the finest products, encompassing ‘Jaali’ stitch created by our exceptionally talented artisans.
Embracing the feel of quintessential ‘Jaali’ stitch with beautiful chikan kurtis by Ada Designer Chikan Studio. The everlasting charm and elegance of the classic chikankari kurti comprising of ‘Jaali’ stitch uphold a supreme position in the ethnic fashion.
Classic and fabulous, these mesmerizingly charming Chikan Sarees by Ada Chikan are boosted with ‘Jaali’ stitch. Holding the Lucknowi glimpse, Ada Chikan offers the Lucknowi Chikankari saree to admire your personality.
Define a head-turning contour with the perfection of this handcrafted Chikankari Suits that thrives in ‘Jaali’ stitch. Showcase a subtle and classic look wearing this green Cotton Chikan Kurti which is apt for every season.
– by Lubna Fatima