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Before the invention of the sewing machine, garments were stitched together with hands. To innovate a design inseam stitching the chikan worker enjoined the two fabrics at the seams and cut patterns which were then hand sewn to give a seam design. The most popular today are the Machhli, Singhara and Sitara Daraz. This was mainly done on the male kurtas since the Lucknow kurta was a Kalidar kurta different to a Bangla straight kurta.