It is the grass leaves formed by V-shaped line of stitches worked in a graduated series on the right side of the fabric. It is occasionally done within parallel rows to fill petals and leaves in a motif, called Ghas patti.
Ghas patti and Chanapatti: During the Nawabi rule of Lucknow, the highfalutin ladies of that era employed chikankari workers for their personal attendance and adorned themselves in the best attires hand crafted by the nimble fingers of these artisans. To create newer designs different stitches were to be used. One such stitch was introduced as Ghas patti, which is in the form of grass blades stacked in a row. An improvisation was done in this stitch by parting it from the centre, like it is in done in a hairstyle, thus it is called maangdaar Ghas patti. In a more or less similar way, short drawn stitches are made to give a leafy look, to be known as Chanapatti, resembling the tiny leaf of a pea plant. Chana Patti is similar to Ghas patti but its motifs are smaller.
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