Bakhiya

Out of the 32 stitches, shadow work is one of the most popular stitches, in this stitch the filling is done on the wrong side while the design is bounded by a running stitch on the right side of the fabric to give a neat look, since the stitch is made on the reverse side of the fabric resembling the herringbone stitch. The mesmerising silhouette formed gives the look as if the embroidery is itself the texture of the garment. It is fabled that a Begum, on witnessing a beautiful appliqué dress of a British lady, wanted the same effect in embroidery on her dress, thus, this stitch of chikan was created in circa 18th century. It is done mostly in making petals of a floral motif or leaves giving a visual effect of a patch.